Ribbed Bind-Off Sampler Instructions

With white yarn, CO 96 sts (this will be a lot so you may need to use a circular needle).
Work in 1x1 rib for 5 rows.
With green yarn, K 1 row. This helps you avoid the color-change purl bump.
(P1, k1) across next row.
Work 2 more rows in k1p1 rib.

1. BO the first 12 sts using the In-Pattern Bind-Off.
2. Starting from step 5 (1 st already on R needle), BO 12 sts using Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off.
3. Starting from step 3 (1 st already on R needle), BO 12 sts using the Yarnover Bind-Off.
4. 1 st already on R needle. If the next st on the L needle is a K, start at step 3 — if the next st is a P, start at step 6 — and BO 12 sts using the Cable Bind-Off for Ribbing. Make sure you end having done a p2tog (step 5), even if that means not binding off exactly 12 sts.
5. Work the 2 (or 4, as you desire) set-up rows of the Tubular Bind-Off (up to step 7). Cut your yarn and leave about 2 1/2 - 3 ft. of tail (enough to do all the remaining bind-offs in the sampler). This will be a little cumbersome on the first few bind-offs, so pull the tail of the yarn so that it’s almost doubled. This will keep much of the tail yarn out of the way until you need it later. Adjust it as you go so the tail yarn doesn’t get stuck in the bind-off. You may also want to tape your tags to the sampler so they don’t get in the way while you’re doing the sewn bind-offs that follow. BO 12 sts using the Tubular Bind-Off.
6. BO 12 sts using the Invisible Ribbed Bind-Off.
7. BO 12 sts using the EZ Sewn Bind-Off.
8. BO remaining sts using the Latvian Bind-Off.

Block this sampler lightly or not at all. You don’t want to block all the “bounce” out of the ribbing.

With white yarn, CO 48 sts.
Work in 2x2 rib for 5 rows.
With green yarn, K 1 row. This helps you avoid the color-change purl bump.
(P2, k2) across next row.
Work 2 more rows in k2p2 rib.

1. BO the first 16 sts using Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off for 2x2 Rib. Next 2 sts on L needle should be k sts.
2. 1 st rem on R needle. Starting from step 2, BO the next 16 sts using the Cable Bind-Off for 2x2 Rib. When done, k1, BO 1, slip st from R needle to L needle.
3. BO remaining sts using the Kitchener Double-Rib Bind-Off.

Block this sampler lightly or not at all. You don’t want to block all the “bounce” out of the ribbing.

About Bind-Offs for 2x2 Rib

Up until I wrote this course, I did not have a way that I liked for binding off on 2×2 rib. I prefer invisible bind-offs, and the technique I had learned for invisibly binding off on 2×2 rib was so complicated that I couldn’t remember how to do it, even though I made a video about it for KnitFreedom, and referred back to it regularly.

Therefore, I pretty much avoided doing 2×2 rib altogether, and because I like to do so many top-down and toe-up projects, which require you to bind off on ribbing, I just settled for doing 1×1 rib.

I told myself it was basically the same, but it’s not. 2×2 rib looks different. A lot of times it looks nicer. The two columns of knit stitches and the two columns of purl stitches are more of a design feature.

When I was researching techniques for this course, I was delighted to discover that I had found not one but three bind-offs that are great options for 2×2 rib.

The three bind-offs in this section all are different and useful in different situations, so it should be easy to choose between them depending on your needs.

My one tip is that I don’t recommend binding off in pattern for 2×2 rib. I don’t think it’s stretchy enough.

My favorite bind-off for 2×2 rib is the Kitchener Double-Rib Bind-Off because it’s fast and invisible (and so much easier than the Invisible Ribbed Bind-Off for 2×2 Rib).