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Beginner Toe-Up Sock with a Fleegle Heel – Fingering Weight

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Category: Socks
Gauge: 7 sts/in in Stockinette stitch
Technique: Toe-Up Socks
Yarn Weight: Fingering (14 wpi)
Toe-Up Socks for Men
Pink Opal fingering weight socks for Magic Loop

Here is a free basic beginner pattern for fingering weight socks, toe-up socks, one– or two-at a time, using Magic Loop. It’s the one I use in all my classes, and my students always get great results.

Sign up or log in to download this free pattern.

Pattern Details

  • Sizes: Small, Medium, Large
  • Finished Measurements: To fit foot circumference: 7(8,9) inches
  • Yarn Weight: Fingering (14 wpi)

Materials

  • Yarn: 150-400 yds fingering-weight yarn (amount of yarn needed depends on length of cuff – 200 yds are needed for a pair of crew-length socks).

  • Needles: 1 pair circular needles, 47" for two-at-a-time, 40-47" for one-at-a-time
  • Needle size: US 2 - 2.75 mm or size required to get gauge (7 sts/in)
  • Notions: Stitch markers, Tapestry needle, Scissors, (optional) sock blockers

Gauge

  • 7 sts/in in St st

Pattern Notes

KnitFreedom's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.

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Related Blog Post: Everything You Need To Know About The Fleegle Heel

A closeup of the Fleegle HeelBy Liat Gat – Founder / Heels, Socks, Toe-Up Socks / August 24, 2012 / 129 Comments

In December of 2006, a blogger known as Fleegle changed the knitting world when she published a no-holes toe-up heel formula on her blog. Since I discovered the Fleegle Heel, I’ve been making videos showing how to do it, writing patterns that use it, and helping the whole world learn to knit it.

Read Post »

Related Blog Post: How to Knit Toe-Up Socks

By Liat Gat – Founder / Toe-Up Socks / September 9, 2010 / 14 Comments

Toe-up socks are the hottest thing in knitting right now. You have to learn a lot of new skills in order to do them, and that can be hard to do on your own.

Read Post »

Testimonials

Much Easier Than I Was Anticipating

4CD7DC57 FAF4 45B2 B79D 0F34DDA65D51My first real pair of socks with sock-weight yarn and I’m in love! Much easier than I was anticipating. Thank you, Liat, for the easy-to-follow lesson, videos, and support!
  – Amy D.

Published July 11, 2018
Last Updated: July 9, 2020 - Current Version: 4.5
Update notes: Added Sl 1 (purlwise) to abbreviations, added link to KnitFreedom pattern page.

30 thoughts on “Beginner Toe-Up Sock with a Fleegle Heel – Fingering Weight”

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  1. Confuses

    The heel doesn’t make sense to me, usually you start decreasing in the heel, why are we doubling the size before we decrease to the original size?

    Reply
  2. Liat Gat - Founder

    Hi lovely knitters,
    Here is how to modify this pattern for child sizes. We have tech-edited the numbers but we have not test-knitted all the sizes, so if you try this out, please leave us a comment and let us know how it goes!

    Toe
    For all sizes, using Judy’s Magic Cast-On, CO 6 sts on each needle (12 sts total).
 Prepare to knit in the round. PM into stitch to indicate BOR.
    Round 1 (plain round): Knit
.
    Round 2 (increase round): (K1, M1L, K to last st on needle, M1R, K1), repeat on other needle.
    Repeat Rounds 1-2 until there are 8 (12, 16, 20) sts on each needle [16 (24, 32, 40) sts total.

    Foot
    Knit in the round until sock reaches the front of the ankle. Hint: try the sock on and pull it snug. Flex the foot. Does the knitting reach the ankle? Then stop and go to the gusset.

    Gusset
    Round 1:
    
Needle 1 (heel needle): K1, M1L, K to last st on needle, M1R, K1.

    Needle 2 (instep needle): Knit.

    Round 2: Knit.

    Repeat Rounds 1-2 until the heel needle contains 16 (22, 30, 38) sts.

    Turn Heel
    Begin working back and forth across heel as follows: PM at midpoint between sts.

    Row 1: K to 2 sts beyond marker, SSK, K1, turn.

    Row 2: Sl 1, P5 removing marker as you come to it, P2tog, P1, turn.

    Row 3: Sl 1, K6, SSK, K1, turn.

    Row 4: Sl 1, P7, P2tog, P1, turn.

    Row 5: Sl 1, K8, SSK, K1, turn.
    Continue working back-and-forth as established: working up to the “gap” and working the two sts on either side of the “gap” together, working one more, then turning.
    When your K1 after your SSK is the last st in the heel, resume knitting in the round.
    Knit across instep needle. Then…


    Round 1:

    Needle 1 (heel needle): K1, K2tog, K to end of needle.

    Needle 2 (instep needle): Knit.

    Round 2:

    Needle 1 (heel needle): K1, SSK, K to last 3 sts on needle, K2tog, K1.
    
Needle 2 (instep needle): Knit.

    Leg
    Knit in the round until the leg is as long as you like.

    Cuff
    Round 1: *K1, P1, rep from * to end of round.
Continue working in 1 x 1 rib until ribbed section of cuff measures 1 in.

    BO using JSSBO or any stretchy bind-off.

    Using a tapestry needle, weave in all ends securely. Block (optional) and enjoy.

    Reply
    1. Frances Rautenbach

      Hi Liat, I haven’t read the other replies yet, so may already have been noted:
      MINOR DETAIL
      For modifications for children’s socks using fingering yarn, the “Leg” section needs to read “Knit in the round until the leg is as long as you like.”
      (it currently says “until the cuff is as long as you like”, instead of leg.)

      Reply
  3. Alex.trapnell@icloud.com

    Hi Liat, I’m knitting these socks (my first ever) on magic loop. I’m a UK size 4 and using a slightly alternative finger yarn this time. I thought I measured my foot ok for the 8 (medium?) and also thought I stopped in plenty of time for the heel, but have noticed that the heel doesn’t sit exactly on my heel. Do I just need to stop a bit earlier on the second sock before the heel to get the sock a bit shorter in the foot? Thanks, Alex.

    Reply
    1. Mary Claire Phillips - KnitFreedom Knitting Expert

      Hi Alex! This is Mary Claire, the KnitFreedom Knitting Expert, here to help :) That’s wonderful this is your first Magic Loop project, and I love the yarn you picked out!

      It sounds like you might have started the heel a little late, which is a common mistake when working toe-up. For the next sock, I recommend trying it on as you go and pulling the sock as snugly as you want it to fit. We have an article with some great visuals explaining how to figure out the front of your ankle and where to start the increases for the fleegle heel: https://www.knitfreedom.com/blog/when-to-start-your-fleegle-heel-increases-where-is-the-front-of-your-ankle/

      Hope this helps with your second sock :)

      Reply
      1. Alex.trapnell@icloud.com

        Lol – actually I did follow your guidance and closely studied your pictures and articles etc showing when/how to start turning the heel and tried the sock on at every point you suggested, pulling it snug. When I flex my foot, I have a distinct line where my ankle starts at the front of the foot, which appeared to match your description.

        I suspect we all interpret it differently, and though I thought I’d stopped in exactly the same place as you, clearly I was adrift, but of course by the time you realise, and the heel is complete, the thought of having to undo all that work fills you with utter horror. I’m just hoping that I can work out where to stop correctly on the second sock. It’s all a huge learning curve and I’m thoroughly enjoying it. I don’t see any project as a waste as I learn many new skills with each pattern and item that I knit. I think you’re right in what you say that it’s probably better to start earlier on turning the heel than you think :o)

        Reply
  4. Emily

    Hi! I’m nearing the end of turning the heel and I’m left with no purl stitches left but on the knit direction I have 11 left after the ditch? Because you’re purling 2 tog on one side but not knitting 2 tog on the other you end up with more on one side.

    Reply
    1. Emily Donnelly

      I figured out the problem! I learned SSK as a completely different technique! I learned it as a method for twisting your knit stitches not for decreasing.

      Reply
      1. Mary Claire Phillips - KnitFreedom Knitting Expert

        Yay – you got it! Glad you were able to figure it out on your own and get back to sock knitting. Let us know how they turn out!

        Cheers,
        Mary Claire

        Reply
  5. Louise

    Question: I’m getting ready to start the heel turn, and using this Basic Fingering Weight Toe-Up Sock pattern. Are the numbers in the row instructions for the Turn Heel (i.e., P5… K6…P7…K8) used for All of the sizes?
    I’m new at socks, but having fun in your class!

    Reply
    1. Liat Gat - Founder

      Hi Louise,
      Great to hear from you! Yes, those numbers are for every size. Happy knitting and let me know how it goes! I love that you’re learning socks from our class. Thank you so much for your trust in us :)
      Liat

      Reply
  6. incogknitosop@gmail.com

    Where do I measure my foot to figure out what size I am? The link to the basic chart isn’t loading.

    Reply
  8. Rochelle McBride

    I’m getting frustrated because ALWAYS my socks are knit to fit, but the heel stretches out and ends up hanging off the back of my shoe! Therefore, I would like to just knit a plain tube sock. How can I adapt the pattern to make it a tube sock? Also, since there won’t be a heel, can I use whatever size needle I wish (probably a 3) and just knit all the way to the cuff? Thanks tons (and inches!)

    Reply
    1. Liat Gat - Founder

      Hi Dear,
      Sorry for the slow reply! You can cast on for the toe and increase to the width of the foot like normal following the pattern. Then just knit in the round until it’s time to do the ribbing for the cuff. Skip all the heel instructions (lucky you!)

      You need to use a needle size that will get you the right gauge (7 sts/in), so if you get the right gauge on 3’s, go for ith.

      Reply
  9. GrandmaLK

    I just downloaded your free pattern for Fingering-Weight Top-Down Socks for Magic Loop. There is no instruction in the pattern for doing Magic Loop. Is this an oversight? You indicated that you prefer Magic Loop, which requires one circular needle, and this would be confusing to someone who didn’t know the ins and outs of doing Magic Loop. Thanks for your help and suggestions.

    Reply
  10. skye.wylie@gmail.com

    I am knitting the large size of the toe-up fingering socks, magic loop. After the heel, I have 35 stitches, not 33. A friend also knitting the same pattern, also ended up with 35. What are we missing? We did the heel turn until the K1 after SSK was the last stitch left, and then continued knitting in the runs as per pattern. Suggestions?

    Reply
    1. Liat Gat - Founder

      Hi Skye,
      Thank you so much for your comment, and sorry it’s taken me so long to get back to you. I will have to test this out myself on the large size, but I assume you are right. Here is what I would add to the pattern: Add another decrease round after Rounds 1 and 2 after the heel as follows: Knit one plain round and then work another K1, SSK, K to last 3 sts on needle, K2tog, K1 on the heel needle.
      I hope this helps!
      Thanks so much,
      -Liat

      Reply
  12. FM

    Hello! Where is the video tutorial? I purchased it and used it for a previous pair of socks. I am ready to use it again but cannot find it. I need help with my first row after Judy’s Magic cast on — I remember it was very helpful.

    Reply
    1. Liat Gat - Founder

      Good question! Slip the stitches purlwise.
      PS – that’s always my default – purlwise unless the pattern says otherwise. Because if you slip the stitch knitwise it will twist the stitch.
      Hope this helps!
      <3 Liat

      Reply
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