Three professional tips for adding cables, lace, or other stitch-patterns to your socks, including combining multiple stitch patterns, checking to see if the socks will come out too big or too small, and heel-flap design tips.
Fun news! My friend and fellow knitwear designer and instructor, Alex Capshaw-Taylor, owner of WorldKnit and Handspun, has volunteered to share with us her experience of a weekend class she took in October with one of the knitting world's most famous and beloved sock designers, Cookie A.
This is part III of her guest blog series.
Top Down Sock Design
...My final class of the weekend was Top-Down Sock Design. I myself prefer toe-up socks, not because of the kitchener stitch, but because I find that when using two circulars on top down socks my stitch joins aren't tight enough.
I think if I were still using DPNs to make socks top down wouldn't be such a big deal. Maybe I should start on the dpns and then move to circulars.
Regardless, Cookie prefers top-down because of the design benefits:
- you can fold the sock to figure out where you want your heel and top of foot.
- You can also make sure the sock isn't too tight to fit over your heel.
Things to keep in mind when sock designing:
1) If you want row repeats to match up when using multiple stitch patterns in a sock, choose patterns whose rows have the lowest common denominator.
For example, if one pattern is a 12-row repeat and another pattern is a 10-row repeat they won’t line up again until row 60.
2) For colorwork, chevron, and bias-stitch socks, always add more stitches because the sock will have less elasticity.
3) Be sure to factor your "suckage" for cables (usually a 50% stitch loss, so a 4-st cable has the same width as 2 stitches). You can always stagger your cables to correct the suckage.
4) Check the sizing of your sock after one full repeat. If it is too big, pinch it to see how many stitches you need to eliminate.
If your heel flap is narrower than 50% of the total stitches then you need to make the flap longer and vice versa.
During this class we got a chance to design a pair of socks. I'm excited about my honey-combed socks with a bobbled cable running straight up the back of the leg!
- Workshop With Cookie A Part I: Charts and Cables
- Workshop With Cookie A Part II: Resizing Stitch Patterns
- More Celebrity Spotlights: Jared Flood Interview: Inside Brooklyn Tweed
If you liked this guest post on top-down sock design, post in the comments!
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